The execution, however, reveals the balance tilted more towards the drier side. The perfumer Mackenzie Reilly's statement talks of her intention to paint a contradiction between lush green vegetal notes and warm dry desert dust'. At first sight, it looks like corners are not being cut. And on one front at least I feel instantly comforted: the materials used here smell just as refined and rich as expected.
However,… on to Meander, which is the first perfume of the Renaissance collection that I've tried. But feel fiercely protective of the house that gave me the joys of both Golds, Jubilations, Ubar, Dia Man… Weird, as I'll gladly snort up all kinds of high concept niche folderol with an open mind. And it was that newness that was spooking me. Now Renaud Salmon is in the driving seat affable and responsive on the forums (he revealed who the nose behind Dia Man was a question that had nagged me for years), but also new. Then, there was a major adjustment to Christopher Chong's wayward path, which sometimes threw up a gem like Fate Woman, intriguing Myths and Imitations, but also unbelievably ugly things like Sunshine Woman and some of the Secret Garden offerings that were best forgotten. I fell in love with the house when the classic perfumes that made its name were all that were available. I have been circling around Meander for a few days, summoning up my nerve to try it, now that Amouage is under new creative direction. For me, it is just one of many examples of at least the past half decade of Amouage mundane misses that make one ponder what happened to the great house producing masterpieces like Dia Man? The bottom line is the $340 per 100ml bottle Meander is a "good" smelling but unimpressive 3 stars out of 5 rated perfume that really should never have been created, meriting a neutral shoulder shrug recommendation to all. The perfume doesn't change much from start to finish, and is pleasant smelling but not anywhere near inspired in its construction or execution, leaving the wearer unimpressed. The truth is there isn't much to write on Meander.
The supporting orris is a nice subtle touch that softens the earthy aspect of the cypriol. It starts off with an odd minty bent that takes some time getting used to, but the pepper infused, earthy, woody cypriol and frankincense primary heart accord grows on you, if never wowing. I don't know why the composition is called Meander, as its development actually is pretty linear to the this writer. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at well over 12 hours on skin. During the late dry-down the remnants of the black pepper, cypriol and frankincense join with woody vetiver and slightly sweet sandalwood through the finish. As the composition enters its early heart the starring slightly sweet minty frankincense remains with the supporting pink pepper morphing into black pepper, thickening as it is joined by near-creamy orris, and earthy, woody patchouli-like cypriol rising from the base. In 2006, Amouage brought on creative director Christopher Chong, who oversaw a complete reinvention of the house and helped to expand the house's international appeal.Meander goes on with a minty, slightly sweet aromatic smoky frankincense with soft pink pepper support before transitioning to its heart. The perfumes often feature traditional Middle Eastern perfume materials. In 1983, the Sultan of Oman established Amouage in the hopes of reviving the Omani tradition of perfumery.Notes include carrot seed, pink pepper, black pepper, orris, cypriol, narcissus, rose, sandalwood, olibanum and vetiver.
#Amouage meander skin#
While Amouage typically produces very bold fragrances with tons of sillage and projection, Meander lends itself to the softer side, holding close to the skin and surrounds you with its powdered warmth. The essential oil of cypriol, also called Nagarmotha, gives it its earthy, hay-like aroma with a dry, almost musty, wood, making it a perfect partner for the powdery orris while enhancing the sandalwood note. Mackenzie Reilly took the assignment and made Meander, a green, slightly peppered and oh-so soft skin-scent that lays on beautifully.
#Amouage meander full#
Find the full bottle here.Īs a perfumer, if someone told you to create a formula where carrot seed, buttery/powdery orris root, narcissus and cypriol come together with olibanum, sandalwood and vetiver, your eyebrows would raise with intrigue and peculiarity.
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